Hair Treatment Composition

ABSTRACT

The present invention concerns a hair treatment composition in the form of an emulsion, preferably of a micro emulsion, which improves hair quality in terms of softness, shine and touch feeling. Emulsion type of hair treatment composition is characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium
         a—one or more surfactants as emulsifier,   b—one or more natural and/or mineral oil,   c—one or more silicone oil, and   d—at least one polyethyleneglycol with a molecular weight of more than 10,000.

The present invention concerns a hair treatment composition in the formof an emulsion, preferably of a micro emulsion, which improves hairquality

Compositions for the treatment of human hair have been known for sometime, they generally comprise various conditioning substances. Suchcompositions are customarily used as aqueous dispersions or emulsions,micro-emulsions or gels. An overview of the known hair treatmentpreparations and the composition thereof can be found, e.g., in themonography of K. Schrader, “Grundlagen and Rezepturen der Kosmetika”,2^(nd) Ed. (1989), pages 722 to 736, 754 to 760.

Post-treatment compositions, also including styling preparations, arecustomarily applied subsequently to a hair treatment, in particularafter washing with a shampoo composition or eventually afterconditioning hair either with a rinse off hair conditioner also know astreatment or rinse preparations or after a leave in as well conditionercomposition or also a coloration or permanent waving treatmentterminating with a final shampoo or rinse treatment.

So-called hair waxes have also become known, which, as the name implies,consist of natural or synthetic products, In spite of their initialsuperficial conditioning performance, those products have been proven toweigh down hair and result in after a short period of time loss ofvolume. Furthermore, hair feel is judged to be, by hair specialists aswell by group of consumer often using the product, is very artificialand not cosmetic at all in terms of hair softness, finger through and/orflexibility. The user of the product group especially complains on oilyand/or artificially covered feeling of hair after application of theproducts.

Additionally, the wax type of preparations has one important practicalusage problem, which is removability from product packaging as they areusually packed into a jar type of containers. A solution to such kind ofproblem has been suggested in a German Patent Application from the sameapplicant, which is published under number DE 102 00 341 A1, as loweringmelting point of the formulation, so that it melts quickly when touchingthe product with fingers. This may overcome the practical problem ofremovability, but will not help at all in solving aforementionedcosmetic problems.

The objective of the present invention is therefore, making acomposition available, which does not show above mentioned cosmeticproblems.

Those problems are solved by using a hair treatment composition onaqueous basis in the form of an emulsion, preferably a micro emulsioncomprising

-   -   a—one or more emulsifying surfactants,    -   b—one or more natural and/or mineral oil,    -   c—at least one silicone oil, and    -   d—at least one polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of        more than 10,000.

The emulsion composition according to the invention is preferably amicro emulsion, which is either non-transparent or semi-transparent andcan as well transparent appearance.

Compositions according to the invention improve hair properties in termsof especially soft texture, gloss, elasticity, flexibility, bounce andin particular improved formability and thereby better compliance. Gloss;softness and natural feeling when touching hair are found to beparticularly important properties of the hair treatment compositions ofthe present invention.

The surfactants suitable for the compositions according to the inventionare first of all those nonionic surfactants. Hair treatment compositionsaccording to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.Preferred nonionic surfactants are ethoxylated fatty alcohols accordingto the following formula:

R₁(CH₂CH₂O)_(n)H

where R₁ is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chainwith 12 to 22 C atoms and n is a number between 2 and 50 preferably 2 to40, more preferably 2 to 30. In one of the preferred embodiments of theinvention, the hair treatment compositions comprise a mixture of twononionic fatty alcohol ethoxylates, one has between 2 to 10 ethoxylateunits and the other is more than 10. Those surfactants are known by thegeneric terms for example “Laureth”, “Myristeth”, “Oleth”, “Ceteth”,“Deceth”, “Steareth” and “Ceteareth” according to the CTFA nomenclature,including addition of the number of ethylene oxide molecules. e.g.“Ceteareth-20”, Steareth-2,

Further nonionic surfactants suitable as emulsifiers in hair treatmentcompositions according to the invention are those polyethylene glycolethers of monogylcerides according to the general formula

R₁ and n are same as above. Examples to those types of nonionicsurfactants are PEG-7-glyceryl cocoate known with the trade name CetiolHE from Cognis, PEG-8-glyceryl laurate know with the trade name GlyceroxL8 from Croda Chemicals, PEG-10 glyceryl oleate, PEG-15 glycerrylisostearate, PEG-5 glycerryl stearate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, etc.

Further nonionic surfactants suitable for treatment compositionsaccording to the invention are alkyl polyglucosides of the generalformula

R₂—O—(R₃O)_(n)—Z_(x).

wherein R₂ is an alkyl group with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R₃ is anethylene or propylene group, Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbonatoms, n is a number from 0 to 10 and x is a number between 1 and 5.

Nonionic surfactant components are, for example, long-chain fatty acidmono- and dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid monoethanolamide andmyristic fatty acid monoethanolamide, which can also be used asemulsifiers according to the invention.

Additionally useful nonionic surfactants are the various sorbitanesters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic acid ester, fattyacid polyglycol esters or poly-condensates of ethyleneoxide andpropyleneoxide, as they are on the market, for example, under the tradename “Pluronics®”, as well as fatty alcohol ethoxylates.

Still further suitable nonionic surfactants as emulsifiers areamineoxides. Such amineoxides are known especially because of their usein cleansing compositions, for example C₁₂-C₁₈-alkyl dimethylamineoxides such as lauryl dimethyl amineoxide, C₁₂-C₁₈-alkylamidopropyl or -ethyl amineoxides, C₁₂-C₁₈-alkyl di(hydroxyethyl) or(hydroxypropyl) amineoxides, or also amineoxides with ethyleneoxideand/or propyleneoxide groups in the alkyl chain, Those are on themarket, for example, under the trade names “Ammonyx®”, “Aromox®” orGenaminox®.

Concentration of nonionic surfactants in total independent from presenceof number of surfactants as emulsifiers is between 0.5% and 35%,preferably 1% and 30% and most preferably 5 and 25% by weight calculatedto the total composition.

Hair treatment composition of the present invention can comprise furtheranionic surfactants as emulsifiers, preferred in a mixture with one ormore nonionic surfactants. The mixing ratio of nonionic and anionicsurfactants is in the range of 10:1 to 1:3. preferably 5:1 to 1:2. mostpreferably 2:1 to 1:1.

Concentration of anionic surfactants in the hair treatment compositionsof the present invention can vary between 0.5% and 35%, preferably 1%and 30% and most preferably 1% and 25% by weight calculated to the totalcomposition.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in general those known from cleansingcompositions. In particular, fatty acids or ethoxylated fatty acidsphosphate esters are suitable in the treatment compositions of thepresent invention according to general formula

where R3, R4 and R5 are same or different, saturated or unsaturated,linear or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 22 C atoms or

R₃(CH₂CH₂O)_(n), R₄(CH₂CH₂O)_(n) or R₅(CH₂CH₂O)_(n)

where R3, R4 and R5 are same as above and n is 1 to 10.

Non-limiting examples to such surfactants are trilaureth-4-phosphateknown with the trade name Hostaphat from Clariant,trideceth-6-phosphate, trideceth-10-phosphate andtristeareth-4-phosphate. Trilaureth-4-phosphate is the most preferredone among them.

Further anionic surfactants of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate typesare as well suitable as emulsifiers in the hair treatment composition ofthe present invention. Those are the ones very commonly used in cosmeticcleansing preparations, for example, the known C₁₀-C₁₈-alkyl sulfates,and in particular the respective ether sulfates, for example,C₁₂-C₁₄-alkyl ether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to4 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates,fatty acid amide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequentsulfatation of fatty acid alkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof.

Additional anionic surfactants useful within the scope of the inventionare α-olefin sulfonates or the salts thereof, and in particular alkalisalts of sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, for example, the disodium saltof monooctyl sulfosuccinate and alkali salts of long-chain monoalkylethoxysulfosuccinates.

Suitable surfactants of the carboxylate type are alkyl polyethercarboxylic acids and the salts thereof of the formula

R₆—(C₂H₄O)_(n)—O—CH₂COOX.

wherein R₆ is a C₈-C₂₀-alkyl group, preferably a C₁₂-C₁₄-alkyl group, nis a number from 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 17, and X is H or preferably acation of the group sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium, which canoptionally be hydroxyalkyl-substituted, as well as alkyl amido polyethercarboxylic acids of the general formula

wherein R₆ and X have the above meanings, and n is in particular anumber from 1 to 10, preferably 2.5 to 5.

Such products have been known for some time and are on the market, forexample, under the trade name “AKYPO®” and “AKYPO-SOFT®”.

Also useful are C₈-C₂₀-acyl isethionates, alone or in mixture with otheranionic surfactants, as well as sulfofatty acids and the esters thereof.

It is also possible to use mixtures of several anionic surfactants inmixture within the scope of the invention.

Further suitable anionic surfactants are also C₈-C₂₂-acylaminocarboxylic acids or the water-soluble salts thereof. Especiallypreferred is N-lauroyl glutamate, in particular as sodium salt, as wellas, for example, N-lauroyl sarcosinate, N—C₁₂-C₁₈-acyl asparaginic acid,N-myristoyl sarcosinate, N-oleoyl sarcosinate, N-lauroyl methylalanine,N-lauroyl lysine and N-lauroyl aminopropyl glycine, preferably in formof the water-soluble alkali or ammonium, in particular the sodium saltsthereof, preferably in admixture with the above-named anionicsurfactants.

As further surfactant component, the compositions according to theinvention can also contain amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants asemulsifiers.

Useful as such are in particular the various known betaines such asalkyl betaines, fatty acid amidoalkyl betaines and sulfobetaines, forexample, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine; long-chain alkyl amino acids, suchas cocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionateand -acetate have also proven suitable.

In detail, it is possible to use betaines of the structure

wherein R₇ is a C₈-C₁₈-alkyl group and n is 1 to 3;sulfobetaines of the structure

wherein R₇ and n are same as above;and amidoalkyl betaines of the structure

wherein R₇ and n are same as above.

Hair treatment composition of the present invention comprises one ormore oil and/or mineral oil at a concentration of 1% to 35%, preferably1 to 30% and most preferably 5 to 25% by weight calculated to totalcomposition, Suitable natural oils are such as avocado oil, coconut oil,palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, whale oil, sunflower oil, almond oil,peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil,jojoba oil, castor oil, or also olive oil, soya oil, and the derivativesthereof. Mineral oils such as paraffin oil and petrolatum are suitablycontained within the scope of the present invention, It should as wellbe noted that hair treatment compositions can contain mixture of one ormore natural oils and mineral oil.

Further suitable hydrophobic oil components are in particular fattyalcohol fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, palmitate,stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyllaurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, myristyl myristate, oleylerucate, polyethylene glycol and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, cetylpalmitate, etc.

At least one silicone oil is the fourth essential part of the hairtreatment compositions within the scope of the present inventions. Thoseare contained in mixture with natural and/or mineral oils in a weightratio 20:1 to 1:1, preferably 15:1 to 1:1 and more preferably 10:1 to1:1 (ratio of sum of natural and/or mineral oils to silicone oil).Preferred are the non-volatile silicone oils.

Preferred ones are known with their INCI name as dimethicone,dimethiconol and cyclomethicone, Commercially, they are available fromvarious companies for example Dow Corning with the known DC series,Wacker Chemie and Toray silicones. All commercially available nonvolatile silicones are suitable in the compositions of the presentinvention. Examples to those are DC 200 series, DC1401, DC 1403, DC 1501and DC 1503. Volatile silicone oils can as well be contained in the hairtreatment compositions in mixture with nonvolatile silicone oils withinthe scope of the present invention with the consition that their contentshould not exceed ¼, preferably 1/10 of the nonvolatile silicone oilcontent of the composition.

Cationic silicones know with INCI name as amodimethicone can as well becontained in the compositions of the present invention. Commercially itis available under the trade name DC 929 in emulsified form in mixturewith a nonionic surfactant and a cationic surfactant.

Concentration of silicone oils in hair treatment compositions of thepresent invention is in the range between 0.1% and 10%, preferably 0.1%and 7.5% and most preferably 0.1 and 5% by weight calculated to totalcomposition.

Hair treatment compositions of the present invention can be in the formof either leave in or rinse off emulsions, especially micro emulsions,used on hair, preferably after shampooing. Leave-in application of thecompositions of the present invention is preferred. In the case of aleave in application, the treatment composition of the present inventioncan as well be used on dry hair without washing and/or shampooing hairfor refreshing the hair properties, especially softness and shine.

Hair treatment compositions according to the present invention do notcontain any fatty and wax components. In the especially preferredembodiment the compositions of the present invention are free of anyfatty alcohol.

The fourth essential component in the treatment compositions of thepresent invention is those high molecular weight polyethyleneglycolswith a molecular weight of above 10.000. Those are known with their CTFAname for example PEG-30M. which has a molecular weight of 30.000 andcommercially available from the company Amerchol under the trade namePolyox WSR. for example Polyox WSR N60-K. which has a CTFA adopted namePEG-45M. polyethyleneglycol with 45.000 molecular weight. Furtherexamples are such as PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-90M,PEG-115M, PEG-160M, etc.

Concentration of the high molecular weight polyethyleneglycols is in therange of 0.05% to 2.5%, preferably 0.1% to 1.5% and most preferablybetween 0.1 to 1.0% by weight calculated to total composition.

Cationic surfactants are useful in the compositions of the presentinvention as emulsifiers and as conditioning agents at the same timerepresented with the general formula below:

where R₈ is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 8-22 C atoms or

R₁₂CO NH (CH₂)_(n)

where R₁₂ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4 or

R₁₃ CO O (CH₂)_(n)

where R₁₃ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4. andR₉ is a hydrogen, lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, saturatedor unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 8-22 C atomsor

R₁₂ CO NH (CH₂)_(n)

where R₁₂ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4 or

R₁₃ CO O (CH₂)_(n)

where R₁₃ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4. andR₁₀ and R₁₁ are independent from each other H or lower alkyl chain with1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is chloride, bromide or methosulfate.

It should be noted that quaternary ammonium compounds with single alkylchain are as well emulsifiers. This should certainly not mean that, theyare excluded to be used as conditioning ingredients. With the above itis especially stated that the single alkyl chain cationic surfactantshave emulsifying ability as well. The others, such as di alkyl dimoniumchloride, is more preferred as conditioner as will be explained below.Suitable cationic surfactants and or conditioning agents are, forexample, long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds which can be usedalone or in admixture with one another, such as cetyl trimethyl ammoniumchloride, myristoyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, trimethyl cetylammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dimethyl stearylammonium chloride, dimethyl dihydrogenated tallow ammonium chloride,stear trimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl dimonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride anddioleoylethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate, etc.

From the above quaternary ammonium compounds disclosed with the generalformula, especially preferred as hair conditioning agents are thosecompounds known per se and are on the market, for example, under thetrade names “Schercoquat®”, “Dehyquart® F30” and “Tetranyl®”. Use ofthese compounds, the so-called “esterquats”, in hair care compositionsis described, for example, in WO-A 93/107 48, WO-A 92/068 99 and WO-A94/166 77, wherein, however, there is no reference made to thecombinations according to the present invention and the advantageousproperties thereof.

Again from the above quaternary ammonium compounds disclosed with thegeneral formula, especially preferred as conditioning ingredient arethese compounds are known per se and on the market, for example, underthe trade name “INCROQUAT® HO” or “OCS”. Those compounds are known witha general ingredient category under “amidoquat” in the cosmeticindustry.

A further preferred component used in the emulsions or micro emulsionsaccording to the present invention are polyols such as propylene glycol,glycerol, sorbitol, propanediol and butanediol. preferably in an amountfrom 1% to 50%, preferably 1% to 40% and more preferably 5% to 30% andmost preferably 5% to 25% by weight. in particular about 10% to about25% by weight, calculated to the total emulsion.

Composition of the present invention may comprise cationic polymers asconditioning agents. Those are cationic cellulose type polymers know asPolymer JR type from Amerchol such as Polyquaternium 10 or cationic guargum known with trade name Jaguar from Rhone-Poulenc and chemically forexample Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Furthermore. chitosan andchitin can also be included in the compositions as cationic naturalpolymers.

Furthermore, those cationic polymers known with their CTFA category namePolyquaternium may as well be added into the compositions of the presentinvention. Typical examples of those are Polyquaternium 6,Polyquaternium 7, Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium 11, Polyquaternium16, Polyquaternium 22 and Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 30,Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 36, Polyquaternium 46.

As well those polymers known with their CTFA category name Quaterniumcan as well be suitable. Those are for example Quaternium-8,Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-22,Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30,Quaternium-33, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61,Quaternium-72, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81,Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-84.

In this context, reference is also made to the cationic polymersdisclosed in DE 25 21 960, 28 11 010, 30 44 738 and 32 17 059, as wellas to the products described in EP-A 337 354 on pages 3 to 7, It is alsopossible to use mixtures of various cationic polymers.

The cationic polymers also include the quaternized products of graftpolymers from organopolysiloxanes and polyethyl oxazolines described inEP-A 524 612 and EP-A 640 643.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise furtheragents, such as protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides, e.g. keratinhydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type “Nutrilan®” or elastinhydrolyzates, as well as, in particular vegetable, optionally cationizedprotein hydrolyzates, for example “Gluadin®”.

Additional natural plant extracts can as well form part of thecompositions of the present invention. Those are incorporated usually inan amount of about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably 0.05% to 3.5%, inparticular 0.1% to 2% by weight, calculated as dry residue thereof tothe total composition. Suitable aqueous (e.g. steam-distilled) alcoholicor hydro-alcoholic plant extracts known per se are in particularextracts from leaves, fruits, blossoms, roots, rinds or stems of aloe,pineapple, artichoke, arnica, avocado, valerian, bamboo, henbane, birch,stinging nettle, echinacea, ivy, wild angelica, gentian, ferns, pineneedles, silver weed, ginseng, broom, oat, rose hip, hamamelis, hayflowers, elderberry, hop, coltsfoot, currants, chamomile, carrots,chestnuts, clover, burr root, coconut, cornflower, lime blossom, lily ofthe valley, marine algae, balm, mistletoe, passion flower, ratanhia,marigold, rosemary, horse chestnut, pink hawthorn, sage, horsetail,yarrow, primrose, nettle, thyme, walnut, wine leaves, white hawthorn,etc.

Suitable trade products are, for example, the various “Extrapon®”products, “Herbasol®”, “Sedaplant®” and “Hexaplant®”. Extracts and thepreparation thereof are also described in “Hagers Handbuch derpharmazeutischen Praxis”. 4^(th) Ed.

The hair treatment compositions may contain one or more organic solventswithin the scope of the invention, such as ethanol, propanol,isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol, alkylene carbonates suchas ethylene carbonate and propylene carbonate, phenoxyethanol, butanol,isobutanol, cyclohexane, cyclohexanol, hexyleneglycol,ethylenecarbonate, ethyleneglycol monoethylether, ethylene glycolmonobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, 1-phenylethylalcohol,2-phenylethylalcohol, o-methoxyphenol. Concentration of organic solventsin the composition should not exceed 10%, preferably 7.5 and morepreferably 5% by weight.

Compositions of the present invention may contain UV filters either forstabilization of the product colour or for protection of hair fromenvironmental influences such as loss of elasticity, loss of hair colour(bleaching effect of sun light). The UV-absorbing substance ispreferably selected from the following compounds: 4-Aminobenzoic acidand the esters and salts thereof, 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acidand the alkali and amine salts thereof, 4-dimethyl aminobenzoic acid andthe esters and salts thereof, cinnamic acid and the esters and saltsthereof, 4-methoxycinnamic acid and the esters and salts thereof,salicylic acid and the esters and salts thereof,2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2′,4,4′-tetrahydroxy-benzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and its 5-sulfonic acid or the sodiumsalt thereof, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-5-chlorobenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxy-5,5′-disulfobenzo-phenone or the sodiumsalt thereof, 2-hydroxy-4-octyloxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone, 3-benzyl-idenecampher,3-(4′-sulfo)-benzyl-idenebornane-2-one and the salts thereof and/or3-(4′-methyl benzylidene)-DL-campher.

The preferred amount of the UV-absorber ranges from about 0.01% to 2.5%,more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, calculated to the totalcomposition. Attention should be paid to the emulsion stability andappearance especially when using UV filter as salts, e.g. anionic UVfilter salts. A general well known rule among the cosmetic chemists isthat stability and appearance of emulsions can greatly be affected byaddition of salts

The compositions of the present invention can comprisehair-restructuring agents. The hair restructuring agents preferred areespecially the ones disclosed in the German patent DE 197 51 550 C2.

One of the known hair restructuring agents is ceramide type of compoundwith the general formula

-   -   where R¹⁴ and R¹⁵ are independent from each other alkyl- or,        alkenyl group mit 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R¹⁶ is methyl, ethyl,        n-propyl or isopropyl group and n is a number between 1 to 6,        preferably 2 or 3.

Other preferred hair restructuring agents are fatty acids with 10 to 24carbon atoms and especially with 16 to 24 carbon atoms.

Sterols, especially the phytosterols, are as well preferred hairrestructuring agents as disclosed in the above mentioned german patent.Especially preferred ones are of plant origin for example ergosterol,sitosterol, stigmasterol, fucosterol, brassicasterol, fungisterol,campesterol, zymosterol, ascosterol, cerevisterol, episterol,faecosterol, spinasterol. Among those phytosterols, the ones found in“Avocadin” which is the unsaponified fraction of the avocado oil is morepreferred.

The concentration of ceramide in the compositions of the presentinvention can be in the range of 0.01% to 2% and especially 0.01% to 1%by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition. The fattyacids may be contained at a level of 0.01 to 2.5% and especially 0.01 to1% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.Phytosterol concentration of the conditioners is less than 1% andpreferably less than 0.5% by weight calculated to the total weight ofthe composition. It should be noted without limiting the use of thoseingredients the effect of those hair restructuring ingredients isespecially elevated when all three of above mentioned ingredients areused in combination with penetration enhancers.

The hair treatment composition can contain complexing agents,solubilizers, preservatives, pH-regulants, the extent they are notalready contained in the original surfactant mixtures, fragrances,thickening agents, and moisturizers.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention is in the range of5 to 8. For adjusting the pH of the said compositions, followingingredients can be used: Organic acids such as citric acid, tartaricacid, fumaric acid, levulinic acid, butyric acid and hydroxy butyricacids, valeric acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid, mandelic acid, glycolicacid, glucuronic acid, propionic acid, salicylic acid or acetic acid orinorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulphuricacid, nitric acid.

The viscosity of the compositions is above 100,000 mPa·s measured with aBrookfield viscosimeter at 20° C. from a Helipath Spindle Set with aspindle F at 10 rpm. Viscosity values are preferably above 250,000 andmore preferably above 400,000.

The styling polymer or polymers is/are selected from the anionic,non-ionic, cationic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic ones can as wellbe contained in the hair treatment compositions according to the presentinvention.

Non-ionic polymers are selected from the ones soluble in water and/oralcohol and/or in alcohol water mixtures, at any ratio. Under thedefinition of soluble in alcohol and alcohol water mixture, it should beunderstood that the polymer is soluble in lower alcohols such asethanol, n-propanol or isopropanol and in their mixtures with water, atany ratio

Suitable non-ionic polymer is first of all vinylpyrrolidon polymerseither homopolymers or copolymers with, especially, vinylacetate. Thoseare known with the trade name “Luviskol” as homopolymers Luviskol K 30,K 60 or K 90 as well copolymers Luviskol VA 55, VA 64 from BASF AG.

Further non-ionic polymer suitable for compositions of the presentinvention is vinylpyrrolidone/vinylacetae/vinylpropionate copolymerknown with the trade name Luviskol VAP 343 as well from BASF.

Natural non-ionic polymers are as well suitable for the composition ofthe present invention. Those are such as cellulose, chitosan, guar gum,neutralised shellac and their derivatives.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers may be contained in composition ofthe present invention. Examples are copolimerisate of n-octylacrylamide,acrylic or metahcrylic acid and tert.-butylaminoethylmethacrylate knownwith its trade name Amphomer, copolymer of methacryloylethylbetaine andalkyl methacrylate known as Yukaformer, terpolymer of metahcrylic oracrylic acid and itaconoic acid and a basic monomer of mono ordialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate or acrylate of methacrylamideknown with the trade name Aquaflex SF 40.

As amphoteric polymers which can be used alone or in mixture with atleast one additional cationic and/or nonionic polymer, reference is heremade in particular to copolymers of N-octyl acrylamide, (meth)acrylicacid and tert.-butyl aminoethyl methacrylate of the type “Amphomer®”;copolymers from methacryloyl ethyl betaine and alkyl methacrylates ofthe type “Yukaformer®”, e.g. the butyl methacrylate copolymer“Yukaformer® Am75”; copolymers from monomers containing carboxyl groupsand sulfonic groups, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid and itaconic acid, withmonomers such as mono- or dialkyl aminoalkyl (meth)acrylates or mono- ordialkyl aminoalkyl -(meth)acrylamides containing basic groups, inparticular amino groups; copolymers from N-octyl acrylamide, methylmethacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert.-butyl aminoethylmethacrylate and acrylic acid, as well as the copolymers known from U.S.Pat. No. 3,927,199.

Anionic polymers may as well be contained in compositions of the presentinvention. Suitable ones are vinyl alkyl ether, in particular methylvinyl ether/maleic acid copolymers, obtained by hydrolysis of vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers, distributed under the trade name“Gantrez® AN or ES”. These polymers may also be partly esterified, asfor example, “Gantrez® ES 225” or “ES 435”, the ethyl ester of an ethylvinyl ether/maleic acid copolymer, or the butyl or isobutyl esterthereof.

Further useful anionic polymers are in particular vinyl acetate/crotonicacid or vinyl acetate/vinyl neodecanoate/crotonic acid copolymers of thetype “Resyn®”; sodium acrylate/vinyl alcohol copolymers of the type“Hydagen® F”, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, e.g. “Flexan® 130”; ethylacrylate/acrylic acid/N-tert.-butyl acrylamide co-polymers of the type“Ultrahold®”; vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/itaconic acid co-polymers,acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymers or the sodium salts thereof of thetype “Reten®”; etc.

Concentration of polymers of anionic, cationic, non-ionic and/oramphoteric or zwitterionic character is in the range of 0.05-10%,preferably 0.05-7.5% and most preferably 0.05-5% by weight, calculatedto the total composition.

The following examples are nonlimiting and to illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLE 1—ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Phase A) Ceteareth-20 20.00%  PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate 10.00%  Mineral oil15.00%  Dimethicone 2.00% Phase B) Water add 100% Glycerin 15.00%  DMDMhydantoin 0.20% Propylene glycol 5.00% PEG-45M 0.40% Phase C) Parfum0.30%

Phase A and Phase B are heated up to 80° C. and subsequently Phase B ismixed into Phase A under continuous agitation. After cooling down to 60°c. Phase C is added and the mixture is cooled down to room temperature.The preparation so obtained has a viscosity of 1,200,000 mPa·s measuredas given in the description. pH of the composition measured at ambienttemperature is around 6.0.

EXAMPLE 2—NOT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Phase A Ceteareth-20 20.00% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 10.00% Mineral oil17.00% Phase B Aqua add 100% Glycerin 15.00% DMDM hydantoin  0.20%Propylene glycol  5.00% PEG-45M  0.40% Phase C Parfum  0.30%

The composition is prepared in the same way as in the example 1. Thepreparation so obtained has a viscosity of 1,400,000 mPa·s measured asgiven in the description. pH of the composition measured at ambienttemperature is around 6.0.

The examples 1 and 2 are compared in a half side comparison test. Forthis purpose 10 volunteers with shoulder length hair are selected. Afterwashing hair of the volunteers with a commercially available shampoounder the brand name Goldwell Definition and drying with a hair dryer,equal amounts (approximately 0.75 g per half side) of the examples 1 and2 are applied each half side. Hair properties are evaluated by at least3 expert hairdressers.

From the evaluation results it is obvious that the side treated with theexample 1 showed always significantly better shine and softness. Theother side is evaluated to have significantly less shine than the sidetreated with example 1. In addition the stylability and volume of thehair is judged to be better in 60% of the case for inventive preparationand in the remaining cases no difference is found.

EXAMPLE 3—ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Phase A) Isoceteth-20 10.00%  Ceteareth-20 10.00%  Steareth-2 6.00%Mineral Oil 11.00%  Dimethicone 2.00% Phase B) Aqua add 100% PropyleneGlycol 5.00% PEG-45M 0.40% DMDM Hydantoin 0.20% Glycerin 7.00% Phase C)Parfum 0.30%

The composition is prepared in the same way as in the example 1. Thepreparation so obtained has a viscosity of 1,100,000 mPa·s measured asgiven in the description.

The composition of example 3 is compared to a composition not containingany PEG 45M and dimethicone otherwise quantitatively same as thecomposition 3 in a half side comparison test. For this purpose 10volunteers with shoulder length hair are selected. After washing hair ofthe volunteers with a commercially available shampoo under the brandname Goldwell Definition and drying with a hair dryer. Equal amounts ofpreparations (0.75 g per half side of inventive and non inventivecompositions) are applied each half side. Hair properties are evaluatedby at least 3 expert hairdressers.

From the evaluation results, it is obvious that the side treated withthe example 3 (inventive composition) showed always significantly bettersoftness and better feeling when touching hair and especially highbrilliance (shine). The other side treated with composition notcomprising any PEG 45M and dimethicone (non-inventive composition) isevaluated to have significantly less softness than the side treated withinventive composition. In addition, the stylability and volume of thehair is judged to be better in 60% of the case for inventive compositionand in the remaining cases no difference is found.

EXAMPLE 4—ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Phase A Ceteareth-20 10.00%  Trilaureth-4 Phosphate 10.00%  Steareth-23.00% Mineral Oil 14.00%  Dimethicone/Dimethiconol mixture* 2.00% PhaseB Aqua add 100% Propylene Glycol 5.00% PEG-45M  0.4% DMDM Hydantoin 0.2% Phase C) Parfum 0.30% *commercially available raw material DC 1503form Dow Corning

The composition is prepared in the same way as in the example 1. Thepreparation so obtained has a viscosity of 610.000 mPa·s measured asgiven in the description.

Similar results are obtained as in examples 1 and 2 (non inventive), and3, when composition according to Example 4 is compared to a noninventive composition produced either by exclusion of silicone componentor by exclusion of high molecolare weight polyethylenegylcole.

EXAMPLE 5—ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Phase A Ceteareth-20 10.00% Ceramide of the formula**  0.20%Trilaureth-4 Phosphate 10.00% Steareth-2  3.00% Mineral Oil 14.00%Dimethicone/Dimethiconol mixture*  2.00% Phase B Aqua add 100% PropyleneGlycol  5.0% PEG-45M  0.4% DMDM Hydantoin  0.2% Phase C) Parfum  0.30%*commercially available raw material DC 1503 form Dow Corning. **asgiven in the description R₁₄ is C₁₅H₃₁; R₁₅ is C₁₆H₃₃ and R₁₆ is CH₃ andn = 2

The composition is prepared in the same way as in the example 1. Thepreparation so obtained has a viscosity of 610.000 mPa·s measured asgiven in the description.

EXAMPLE 6—ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Phase A) Ceteareth-20 20.00% PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate 10.00% Mineral oil15.00% Dimethicone  2.00% Phase B) Water add 100% PVP  2.00% Glycerin15.00% DMDM hydantoin  0.20% Propylene glycol  5.00% PEG-45M  0.40%Phase C) Parfum  0.30%

EXAMPLE 7—ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Phase A) Ceteareth-20 20.00%  Ceramide of the formula** 0.20% Oleic acid0.50% Avocadin 0.20% PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate 10.00%  Mineral oil 15.00% Dimethicone 2.00% Phase B) Water add 100% PVP 2.00% Glycerin 15.00% Benzyloxyethanol 1.00% DMDM hydantoin 0.20% Propylene glycol 5.00%PEG-45M 0.40% Phase C) Parfum 0.30% **as given in the description R₁₄ isC₁₅H₃₁; R₁₅ is C₁₆H₃₃ and R₁₆ is CH₃ and n = 2

EXAMPLE 7—ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Phase A) Ceteareth-20 20.00%  Cetrimonium chloride 1.00% PEG-7 Glycerylcocoate 10.00%  Mineral oil 15.00%  Dimethicone 2.00% Phase B) Water add100% PVP 2.00% Glycerin 15.00%  DMDM hydantoin 0.20% Propylene glycol5.00% PEG-45M 0.40% Phase C) Parfum 0.30%

1-22. (canceled)
 23. A method for improving hair shine and softnesscomprising the steps (1)-(3) in order: (1) shampooing and then dryinghair; (2) applying a hair treatment composition to hair; and (3) leavingthe hair treatment composition on hair without further rinsing, whereinthe hair treatment composition is in emulsion form and comprises in acosmetically aqueous medium (a) one or more surfactants as emulsifier,(b) one or more natural and/or mineral oil, (c) one or more siliconeoil, and (d) at least one polyethyleneglycol with a molecular weight ofmore than 10,000.
 24. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hairtreatment composition is a micro emulsion.
 25. The method according toclaim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition is free of fatty alcoholand waxes.
 26. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hairtreatment composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants asemulsifier.
 27. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hairtreatment composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants asemulsifier.
 28. The method according to claim 5, wherein the hairtreatment composition comprises as anionic emulsifier surfactanttrilaureth-4-phosphate.
 29. The method according to claim 1, wherein thehair treatment composition comprises mixture of anionic and nonionicsurfactants as emulsifiers.
 30. The method according to claim 1, whereinthe hair treatment composition comprises emulsifiers at concentration of0.5 to 35% by weight calculated to total composition.
 31. The methodaccording to claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition comprisesmixture of emulsifiers of nonionic and anionic types at a ratio of 10:1to 1:3.
 32. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hair treatmentcomposition comprises component (b) at a concentration of 1% to 35% byweight, calculated to total composition.
 33. The method according toclaim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises component (c)at a concentration of 1% to 35% by weight, calculated to totalcomposition.
 34. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hairtreatment composition comprises oil components, which is the sum of thecomponents (b) and (c) at a concentration of 1 to 35% by weight,calculated to total composition.
 35. The method according to claim 1,wherein the hair treatment composition comprises natural and/or mineraloil and silicone oil at a weight ratio of 20:1 to 1:1.
 36. The methodaccording to claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition comprisespolyethyleneglycol with a molecular weight of more than 10,000 at aconcentration of 0.05% to 2.5% by weight calculated to totalcomposition.
 37. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hairtreatment composition comprises cationic amphiphilic molecules accordingto the general formula

where R₈ is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 8-22 C atoms orR₁₂ CO NH (CH₂)_(n) where R₁₂ is saturated or unsaturated, branched ornon-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of0-4 orR₁₃ CO O (CH₂)_(n) where R₁₃ is saturated or unsaturated, branched ornon-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of0-4 and R₉ is a hydrogen, lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms,saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 8-22C atoms orR₁₂ CO NH (CH₂)_(n) where R₁₂ is saturated or unsaturated, branched ornon-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of0-4 orR₁₃ CO O (CH₂)_(n) where R₁₃ is saturated or unsaturated, branched ornon-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of0-4 and R₁₀ and R₁₁ are independent from each other H or lower alkylchain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is chloride, bromide ormethosulfate.
 38. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hairtreatment composition comprises one or more polymers selected fromanionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers.
 39. The methodaccording to claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition furthercomprises UV filters.
 40. The method according to claim 1, wherein thehair treatment composition comprises ceramide type of compound of thefollowing general formula

where R¹⁴ and R¹⁵ are independent from each other alkyl- or, alkenylgroup with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R¹⁶ is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl orisopropyl group and n is a number between 1 to
 6. 41. The methodaccording to claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition comprisesfatty acids with 10 to 24 C atoms.
 42. The method according to claim 1,wherein the hair treatment composition comprises phytosterol.
 43. Themethod according to claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition hasa pH value between 5 and
 8. 44. The method according to claim 1, whereinthe hair treatment composition has a viscosity of at least 100,000 mPa·smeasured at 20° C. with a Brookfield viscosimeter with Spindle F fromHelipath Spindle Set at 10 rpm.